The Coastal Paradise SA locals don’t want you to know about!
As far as coastlines go, there are very few that are as scenic and spectacular as South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. This journey, commencing from Port Lincoln, heads north-west along the coastline of the western Eyre Peninsula, the destination being Ceduna. This 400km stretch of coastline lets you take in some of the most beautiful white sand beaches, crystal-clear waters and lots of free and low-cost camping.
A 45-minute drive out of Port Lincoln, and famous for its oysters, Coffin Bay also has another hidden gem, being Coffin Bay National Park. A large part of the park is only accessible by 4WD, but 2WD vehicles can still access some breathtaking scenery. It’s here that you will see spectacular views of Avoid Bay’s white sands and clear water. Further around the peninsula is the Golden Island Lookout and Almonta Beach. This part of the park can be easily seen in a few hours. Don’t forget to stop and purchase some fresh Coffin Bay oysters.
The pretty seaside town of Elliston is a further 150km along the coast. The town is a nice stopover and nearby is the Great Ocean Drive. This is a must-see diversion along the way. A few kilometres to the west of Elliston is the turnoff to the 12km coastal scenic drive along the spectacular cliffs. The road is hard gravel and is suitable for 2WD vehicles. We had been told to drive along the road in an anti-clockwise direction to get the best views. We were glad of this advice. In addition to the spectacular scenery, dotted along the cliff tops are wonderful quirky, stone sculptures. A biennial event is held where the sculptures are displayed along the cliffs, and some of the sculptures remain as permanent fixtures. We couldn’t help ourselves getting some quirky photos.
Another little hidden gem that we had read about was Colton’s Bakery. This is about 10km past Elliston heading west. It’s a roadside self-serve bakery outside a farmhouse where you can purchase home-made bread. The outlet works on an honesty system. You select the bread from the cabinet and deposit your money in the tin. It seemed to be a busy little place, with quite a few people stopping while we were there, including some locals. The bread was reasonably priced, about $3.50 for a white cob loaf, and it tasted delicious!
Further along the Flinders Hwy is the Talia Caves Road. This is another worthwhile detour, but is not very well signposted. We missed the road sign and had to turn around. Look out for the small road sign about 50km past Elliston. The first stop is the Woolshed, a large cavern carved into the cliff face by the pounding waves over many years. There’s a boardwalk down to the entrance and it provides for some outstanding scenery. Continue along this road and you pass the Tub, which is a large crater in the cliff. At the end of the road is a great view of Talia Beach. This is where you need to turn around and head back to the highway.
Another unique attraction along the way is Murphy’s Haystacks. These are giant granite boulders in the middle of a paddock. The turnoff to Murphy’s Haystacks is 40km before Streaky Bay and it’s well sign posted. There’s a free-camp area there with toilets and picnic tables. Entry to the Haystacks property is by gold coin donation at the gate.
The next stop is Streaky Bay. You can stay at Eyres Waterhole or Streaky Bay South Rest Area for free or there’s the Point Westall Camping Area for a small fee which has toilets, is pet-friendly and can accommodate big rigs. A must-see in Streaky Bay is the great white shark replica located at Stewart’s Roadhouse in the main street. It’s a full-scale replica of the largest great white ever caught with a rod and reel. Its teeth have been broken off over the years, but the size of the shark is unbelievable. We ordered fish and chips before going to see the shark and then ate our fish and chips overlooking the pretty jetty.
Another must-see is the Cape Bauer Loop drive. The drive is a 40km round trip from Streaky Bay. It’s advisable to drive in a clockwise direction and be sure to stop at the boardwalk at the Whistling Rocks and Blowholes.
The highlight of our journey along the western Eyre Peninsula was our visit to Baird Bay, and specifically, to go on a tour with Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience to swim with dolphins and sea lions in the wild. This was a last-minute addition to our itinerary because we found out about the tours only on the day we arrived. Fortunately, there were places available. We left Streaky Bay early in the morning for the 45-minute drive to Baird Bay. The last 25km is on hard, graded gravel road and you can park your car and caravan on the beach carpark and then walk down the beach (which is actually a road) to the start of the tour. The camp area at Baird Bay is suitable for small vans or camper trailers and has toilets, picnic tables and is pet-friendly.
We got fitted out in short, but warm wetsuits and then boarded the boat. It’s a short 15-minute boat ride to the entrance of the bay and getting our masks and snorkels fitted, we did not have to wait long until we were joined by the resident dolphins. Mick, our guide, got into the water first with the shark shield. Apparently, there’s still debate as to whether the shark shields actually work by emitting a frequency to disrupt the sharks’ senses; however, we were all glad that he had it on rather than not! Along with dolphins and sea lions, this is also great white territory. The skipper reassured us that they had only ever seen three great white sharks in 20 years!
Once the dolphins decided it was time to leave, we hopped out of the water and back into the boat. One tip is to make sure you take a warm jacket with you to keep warm in between swims. It’s quite pleasant in the water, but the wind is very cold when you get out. Eventually, the dolphins tired of us and swam back to the ocean. It’s then a ride over to the protection of an island to where the sea-lion colony lives. The sea lions are so playful that they come right up to you and even try to chase you. Only too soon the unforgettable experience of swimming with both dolphins and sea lions in their natural environment was over and we headed back to shore.
We finally headed off for the last stop on this journey to Ceduna. Ceduna is a crossroads town. It’s where the Flinders Hwy meets up with the Eyre Hwy, and traverses the northern Eyre Peninsula and where travellers prepare for, or complete the Nullarbor crossing.
The western Eyre Peninsula is a delight for seafood lovers and anglers. We were spoilt with a selection of all the fresh fish and seafood that we could eat and every seaside town has a jetty from which to catch your own. The jetties also provide a vantage point for some spectacular sunsets. The sun setting over the water of the western-facing peninsula is the most memorable sunset you will witness.
FREE-CAMPING
MURPHYS HAYSTACK
Located 39km south-east of Streaky Bay on Benbarber Rd.
33 01 09 S 134 29 28 E
TOILETS, SHADE, PICNIC TABLES, BIG RIG, MOBILE PHONE RECEPTION, PETS ALLOWED
STEAKY BAY SOUTH REST AREA
Located 31km south-east of Streaky Bay
32 55 56 S 134 27 18 E
SHADE, BIG RIG, PETS ALLOWED
BAIRD BAY
Located 50km south of Streaky Bay via Calca Rd.
33 08 38 S 134 21 47 E
TOILETS, DRINKING WATER, PICNIC TABLES, BBQS PET FRIENDLY
CHEAP TREATS
- Sample the local oysters. Fresh oysters can be purchased at most of the towns along the western Eyre Peninsula for a fraction of the cost that you would pay in a restaurant, and they couldn’t get any fresher.
- Purchase a fresh loaf of home baked bread from the roadside bakery at Colton. There’s an unattended roadside outlet that is based on an honour system. We paid $3.50 for a lovely white cob loaf. Look for the “open” signs along the road about 10km after leaving Elliston, heading west on the Flinders Hwy.
- Murphy’s Haystacks. Located in a field approximately 40km to the south-east of Streaky Bay. The attraction is well signposted. Entry is via a gold-coin donation.
FREEBIES
- Talia Cave Tourist Drive. This drive includes the Woolshed Cave, the Tub and a lookout over Talia Beach. Look out for the signpost approximately 50km north of Elliston.
- Great White Shark replica at Stewart’s Roadhouse in Streaky Bay. 13–15 Alfred Terrace, Streaky Bay. Replica of the largest great white shark caught with a rod and reel.
MUST SEES
- Coffin Bay National Park. Day entry to the park is via a self-registration station at the entrance to the park. $9 per vehicle for a day pass. The national park is located west of the town of Coffin Bay and is well signposted. 2WD access is available to part of the park, including Avoid Bay, Golden Island lookout and Yangie Bay. The more remote areas of the park are 4WD only.
- Great Ocean Drive and Sculptures on the Cliffs, Elliston. Look for the sign along the Flinders Highway a few kilometres to the west of Elliston. It’s advisable to drive the 12km road in an anti-clockwise direction to get the best views.
- Cape Bauer Loop drive, Streaky Bay. The drive is a 40km round trip from Streaky Bay, predominantly on hard gravel suitable for 2WD vehicles. It’s advisable to drive in a clockwise direction and be sure to stop at the boardwalk at the Whistling Rocks and Blowholes
- Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience. Drive into Baird Bay and continue along the beach, it is a road! It’s the last building on the left. Parking is available on the beach for cars and RVs. Morning and afternoon departures are weather-dependent.
HOW TO GET THERE
Port Lincoln is 650km from Adelaide. It’s a further 400km along the Flinders Hwy to Ceduna. The drive to Port Lincoln from Adelaide can be shortened by utilising the newly re-opened ferry service from Wallaroo to Lucky Bay to avoid the need to drive around the Spencer Gulf.
VISITOR INFORMATION
PORT LINCOLN VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE
Adelaide Place, Port Lincoln
Ph: 1300 788 378
ELLISTON VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE
Ph: (08) 8687 9200
Web: www.elliston.com.au
STREAKY BAY VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE
21 Bay Road, Streaky Bay
Ph: (08) 8626 7033
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