‘The best coastal touring route in Australia!’ - Fred
We’d no sooner set foot on terra firma after a relaxing Spirit of Tasmania voyage to Port Melbourne from the Apple Isle, than we set our GPS to travel west. With memories of the hospitality and friendliness of Taswegians and the sheer beauty of the countryside still fresh in our minds we opted to take the Princes Highway, the road somewhat less travelled, from Mt Gambier in South Australia, up the Limestone Coast to Kingston SE.
Was it the lure of giant red rock lobsters, following food trails or simply the allure of SA beaches that attracted us, or again the opportunity to sample some of the best red wines in the world? Perhaps it was all of the above. Mt Gambier was to be our base for the majority of our trip with time spent enjoying the coastal town of Robe.
Mt Gambier, the second biggest town in SA, was officially declared a city in 1954, but before European settlement the original Aboriginal inhabitants called the area ‘home of the eagle hawk’. First sighted from the survey brig, HMS Lady Nelson in 1800 it was named after Lord James Gambier, admiral of the fleet.
RVers can choose from good quality caravan parks and if your rig is large, the showgrounds, all of which are close to the heart of the city. I’m a great fan of information centres and have yet to find one that doesn’t offer top advice and plenty of free maps and pamphlets to fine tune your adventures.
The Lady Nelson visitor centre here is well worth a visit, and despite the fact that the lady herself was elsewhere being refurbished; there was still plenty to see. You’ll enjoy the underwater sea world with its interactive displays and walking over glass floors with illuminated fossil rocks beneath your feet. There’s also free admission to theatre screens to see the film ‘Across the Green Triangle’ which focuses on the history, industries and stories of the area.
I’d imagine that when most travellers think of Mt Gambier, they conjure up images of its famous blue lake. You’ll find plenty of places around this most popular tourist attraction to stop and photograph and be enthralled by its colour changes. If you’re lucky in late November you’ll get to witness it changing to a vivid blue.
Perhaps you’ll consider a tour where you’ll descend in a glass panelled lift to get up close and personal with the lakes surface. Water from the lake provides the town’s water supply and has done so for a long time. It’s deep enough to be below the level of the city’s main street.
A local geologist explained the formation of the Blue Lake and associated lakes and took us to nearby streets where you can see evidence that once this region was bathed in warm tropical seas. He also pointed out layers of ash thrown sky high by the immense explosive forces that created the lakes system. We were surprised to learn of the volcanic nature of this area and the fact that volcanoes exist today stretching into Victoria and are capable of becoming active. His information fascinated us and we could have happily spent hours listening as he painted pictures of the areas geological past, present and future.
Despite the attraction of the Blue Lake don’t overlook unique places like Leg of Mutton Lake and Browne’s Lake. These smaller craters have bitumen roads leading through them and make ideal lunch stops or attractive places for walking and exploring.
The answer as to whether there are other attractions here is a resounding yes. For example, the cave gardens in the city centre, is a sink hole formed when the limestone surface collapsed. You can walk into the cave or get awesome views from a suspended platform. There’s extensive floodlighting and a night time visit is well worth the trip. Like most of the attractions in ‘Gambie’, this one is free.
‘The Sovereign Garden’ is my pick of attractions where you can visit for lunch and use the BBQ. Umpherston Sink Hole as it is otherwise known has an amazing history and the fact that when the surface collapsed it took overlying topsoil with it explains why today it’s a garden wonderland. Hydrangeas, hanging ivy, grassy lawns and flowers a plenty make it a very special place.
There are steep steps to negotiate to the floor of this sinkhole but a slow and steady approach should do the job. You’ll see photos there of when the sinkhole was filled with water and people enjoyed boating – how times change! We’d recommend you consider at least an hour to explore and experience this garden environment.
Engelbrecht Cave is another attraction and thanks to the Lion’s Club of Mt Gambier a three year clean up has removed 100 years of rubbish. It’s one of Gambier’s most interesting cave sites but check out the number of steps which may not suit everyone.
Mt Gambier is a caravan friendly destination, but as with all such destinations we prefer to unhook the van and radiate out on day trips. We’ve found this is more convenient with shopping, where sightseeing is involved and certainly saves on fuel towing the van everywhere. You’ll enjoy great shopping opportunities, cheap pub meals and access to large supermarkets to chase down specials. One could best describe Mt Gambier as a city in the country and it certainly has a welcoming, friendly feel about it.
Port Macdonnell is a short drive south of Mt Gambier and we loved its coastline, maritime museum in the information centre and seaside cafes. During lobster fishing months you’re likely to see boats returning with catches of some of the largest red rock lobsters. If you’re there in the warmer months you might like to take a dip or enjoy a stroll along white sandy beaches. Views of the coast and headland are stunning so plan for a drive to take in these views.
Returning to Gambie we headed north towards Penola ‘the perfect place to pause’ and ‘gateway to the Coonawarra’. It’s about 50km away and we enjoyed exploring shops in the main street, especially one called ‘Never Too Old’, full of replica antiques and collectables. In August 2011, a tornado struck the shop virtually tearing it apart. Now fully rebuilt, it will absorb lots of browsing time.
I couldn’t help noticing a sign here that read ‘life isn’t about waiting for the storm to pass, it’s about learning to dance in the rain’. As I began thinking, I had to agree that this saying is in common with attitudes I find with nearly every RVer I’ve met and definitely with everyone who loves the free camping lifestyle.
In the backstreets of Penola there are many cottages worth visiting. Petticoat Lane is where you’ll find reminders of the 1800’s. William Wilson, ex Scottish ‘black watch’, lived in one cottage and by all accounts was a remarkable man. He pushed a wheelbarrow from Penola to the Victorian goldfields, made his fortune and is credited with starting the Coonawarra wine region. Sharam Cottage is also where fifteen children were born to a bootmaker and his wife. Four children did not survive childhood. However, the herb gardens have survived since the 1850’s and give an insight into life in these days.
What we found beside Petticoat Lane was the Mary MacKillop Interpretive Centre and school house where she taught children from the district. Saint Mary of the Cross MacKillop, Australia’s first saint, together with father Julian Woods founded the religious order, The Sisters of St Joseph, here at Penola. This is well worth a visit and the volunteer staff are most helpful.
Heading a short distance north you’ll arrive at the Coonawarra and be amazed that the main road travels through the centre of so many wineries. Due to the rich red ‘terra rosa’ soils and climate that allows the grapes to ripen slowly this 17km long strip has produced internationally renowned cabernet sauvignon wines, and is known as Australia’s other red centre.
We dropped into the oldest vineyard at Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate (1896). Why not try your hand at blending your own red wine? You get to take home your favourite blend with your name on it – how’s that for choosing the perfect happy hour tonic?
Out of the wineries we made our way north again to Narracoorte Caves some 30-odd kilometres away. We were impressed by the Victoria Fossil Cave with its treasure of 93 vertebrate species. On your one hour tour, the guide will explain details on the cave’s unique features and particularly fossils. There’s a reconstruction of a marsupial lion which like many other animals fell through the cave lining above and became trapped. We couldn’t help wondering if the bones of animals here could have been those of the original ‘drop bears’.
Back in Mt Gambier we hooked up the van and set off again, this time hugging the Limestone Coast to Kingston SE. Beachport, our first stop, is on an isthmus with the sea on two sides and Lake George beside it. A drive to Durant’s Lookout and taking Bowman Scenic Drive will reward with spectacular views of rugged pristine coast. The Pool of Siloam nearby is where it’s said the salt water is seven times saltier than the sea. This could be just the spot to have a soak or float and enjoy the alleged therapeutic properties of the water.
This is a most attractive seaside place with Moreton Bay Figs near the foreshore, a very long wharf to fish from, and great spots to launch a tinnie. For those into 4WD beach driving, there are plenty of sandy tracks and beaches to explore but get advice from helpful locals and clubs as many drivers have succumbed to soft beach sand. Driving north you’ll arrive at Robe, surely a top spot to linger longer. You’ll find it about 350km south east of Adelaide beside the beautiful Guichen Bay.
First settled in 1802 and named after Governor Robe it was declared a port in 1847. Soon wool shipments began arriving. From 1857 onwards 17,000 Chinese transited through here to avoid the Victorian poll tax. Local guides then took them 150km to the unguarded Victorian border and another 400km to the goldfields.
The rock lobster industry in the 1950’s saw a regrowth to some 1500 people. Today it continues to flourish and is known as a popular holiday destination. Stroll around its streets and take in its seafaring history, 84 historic buildings and you’ll be reminded of the days when life was simpler.
We were fortunate enough to have the mayor’s wife as our guide for a day and she symbolises the welcoming and friendly nature of the locals. Two places north of Robe are worth noting. Cape Jaffa Wines are unique being only one of four certified biodynamic vineyards in SA. Check out their cellar door wines for that special happy hour.
Talk about gems. We came across Sandy Grove, part of a fabulous food trail where you can taste native and traditional foods, jams, chutneys, olives, relishes and so on – all gluten and preservative free. Now this really is a special place… You can even park your rig between the olive rows for free and there are toilets and a shower nearby.
Muntries are a rare tiny native apple that loves to grow as a ground cover along parts of the Limestone Coast. The taste is somewhat like a dry Granny Smith apple with a hint of cinnamon. Containing three times more vitamin C than blueberries and more than twice the antioxidants these are not only delicious, but healthy too.
Finally we reached Kingston SE some 297km south east of Adelaide. It was officially established in 1860 and named after an Australian politician and architect. The principal industries are farming and fishing with tourism growing fast.
A feature of Kingston SE is its two popular swimming beaches at Dinks and Wyomi Beaches. Fishing off the long town jetty is a hotspot with whiting, garfish, mulloway and flathead on offer. Don’t be surprised if you see sea lions or seals and dolphins frolicking beside the coast. But by far the biggest feature of Kingston SE is the big lobster, or as locals call it, ‘Larry’.
It rightfully takes its place alongside other big attractions such as the Big Pineapple in QLD and the Big Banana in NSW. As the story goes the final size for Larry became a problem as the imperial measurements somehow became metric and hey presto, the big lobster suddenly grew threefold in size and up to 4 tonnes in weight.
Nearby is a sundial of human involvement known as an analemmatic sundial. When standing on the sundial your shadow will pass through the hour markers and yes, it’s pretty accurate. This journey demonstrates the value of taking the road less travelled. The gems of Mt Gambier and the Limestone Coast just seem to get brighter and brighter. Take our advice and don’t miss it!
CHEAP TREATS
Aquifer Tours
Where: Corner of Bay Rd and John Watson Dr, Mt Gambier
Ph: (08) 8723 1199
Adults $8.00 Children $4.00
Tours conducted hourly running for approximately 45 minutes
Engelbrecht Cave Tours
Where: Jubilee Hwy West, Mt Gambier
Ph: (08) 8723 5552
Adults: $12 Seniors: $10 Children: $8
Tours run hourly. Last tour begins at 3pm
The Mary MacKillop Penola Centre
Where: Petticoat Lane, Penola
Ph: (08) 8737 2092
Adults: $5 Children are free
Open 7 days from 10am to 4pm
FREEBIES
Umpherston Sinkhole
Where: Jubilee Hwy East, Mt Gambier
Cave Garden
Where: Watson Tce, Mt Gambier
Durants Lookout
Where: Parklands Tce, Beachport
Sundial of Human Involvement
Where: on a small island in Maria Creek adjacent to the Apex Park, Kingston SE
MUST SEES
Wynns Coonawarra Estate
Where: 1 Memorial Dr, Coonawarra
Ph: (08) 8736 2225
Open 7 days from 10am to 5pm
Narracoorte Caves
Where: Hynam Caves Rd, Naracoorte
Ph: (08) 8762 2340
Victoria Fossil Cave Tour – Adults: $20 Seniors: $16 Children: $12
Runs for one hour between the hours of 9am and 5pm
Pool of Siloam
Where: McCourt St, Beachport
A lake seven times saltier than the sea
The Big Lobster
Where: 17 Princes Hwy, Kingston Se
Ph: (08) 8767 2555
Try the battered garfish, a steal at $14.90
HOW TO GET THERE
Mt Gambier is 440km west of Melbourne, or 435km east of Adelaide. From Mt Gambier, Penola is 50km north, Beachport is 85km north-west, and Kingston Se is 157km north-west. Narracoorte is 100km east of Kingston Se, and 100km north of Mt Gambier.
INFORMATION
Mt Gambier Tourism
The Lady Nelson Visitor & Discovery Centre
Where: Jubilee Hwy East, Mt Gambier
Ph: (08) 8724 9750
Web: www.mountgambiertourism.com.au
Kingston District Council
Where: 29 Holland St, Kingston Se
Ph: (08) 8767 2033
Web: www.kingstondc.sa.gov.au
WHERE TO STAY
Limestone Coast Tourist Park
Where: Corner of Princes Hwy & Hawkins Rd, Mount Gambier
Ph: (08) 8723 2469
Web: www.limestonecoasttouristpark.com.au
Sites start at $34 per night
Mt Gambier Central Caravan Park
Where: 6 Krummel St, Mt Gambier
Ph: (08) 8725 4427
Web: www.mountgambiercentralcaravanpark.com.au
Sites start at $20 per night
Mt Gambier Showgrounds
Where: Gratwick Dr Entrance, Pick Ave, Mt Gambier
Ph: 0408 492 182
Sites start at $20 per night
Kingston Caravan Park
Where: 34 Marine Parade, Kingston Se
Ph: (08) 8767 2050
Web: www.kingstoncaravanpark.com.au
Sites start at $25 per night
