Fred Chases The Murray
Chasing the Murray
WORDS BY FRED WRIGHT
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN HABERFIELD
South Australia has always been a haven for RVers because it offers a smorgasbord of iconic attractions. This fabulous trip west from Renmark to the Yorke Peninsula proved outstanding and offered attractions and experiences bound to suit beginner RVers or the most seasoned travellers.
ROBINVALE
We set our sights on Renmark but we came upon the CMCA 28th Anniversary Rally on the mighty Murray River at Robinvale. Mind you, one could hardly miss this epic sight, which virtually resembled a makeshift city; such was the number of motor homes and caravans present. The amount of work that goes into such rallies is hard to comprehend and we are always amazed by the army of volunteers who spend a year or more preparing and then wholeheartedly participating in the rally its self.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many happy hours in the one location; as we drove around there were constant calls to join the throngs of travellers! What did surprise us was the small contingent of qualified electricians and plumbers who had the responsibility of ensuring 240 V power and water supplies were always available; we found that very reassuring!
The organisers even produced a colourful booklet to outline daily events and tours. From entertainment to seminars, nothing was left to chance in the planning and this was evident in the smooth running of the event. Congratulations to the CMCA on another first class rally!
At the rally we met lots of friends and it was great to catch up on club activities and understand the volunteer work many undertake across Australia. We wondered how many non-RVers would be aware that CMCA members and travellers at large give their time and money so freely to support communities in need. For us this is a large part of why we are proud to be Aussies and living the dream.
LENMARTH
Leaving Robinvale we headed north-west to Lenmarth in South Australia, perched on the banks of the Murray River. Historians tell us that this is a river millions of years in the making and probably started flowing westward from the Great Dividing Range some 65 million years ago.
Nature lovers will no doubt be attracted by the large number of mammals, birds and reptiles. Pending the time of year, you can see waves of birds migrating from Siberia, Alaska, Japan and China. The region is also home of the Murray Cod, Australia’s largest fresh water fish; it can grow in excess of 100kg and 180cm! The oldest recorded specimens of Murray Cod had an estimated lifespan that stretched over 100 years and ancient uncovered cod remains suggest they’ve been in the region for over 50 million years! Also of significance along the Murray are the Murray River Red Gums seen growing along watercourses to heights of over 40 metres and diameters of 3 meters; we were told they can live up to a whopping 700 years! Take special care when camping under these giant eucalypts as they are well known for dropping branches, sometimes with fatal results.
DID YOU KNOW?
The Murray Darling Basin provides one third of Australia’s food supplies!
RENMARK
Locals call Renmark South Australia’s River Paradise! The charming town was founded in 1887 by Canadians Ben and George Chaffey; it’s Australia’s oldest irrigation settlement
This heart of the Riverland boasts many attractions for visitors. I’m particularly fond of a trip on the region’s authentic paddle steamer, the 1911 commissioned Heritage Steam Vessel! Some other great places to stop and explore include the Olivewood Historic Homestead and Museum and Ruston’s Rose Garden
We set off north-east along the Murray heading for Wilkadene Woolshed Brewery, the Riverland’s own microbrewery in the historic woolshed at Wilkadene Station; we really enjoyed hearing how their beers are made from local ingredients! On the way you might take a short signposted diversion to view some spectacular sights as the Murray twists and turns carving its way deeply into the countryside. Afternoon will give you the chance to see the reds and oranges light up under a setting sun; that’s when you’ll understand how Renmark, some 200km from Adelaide, means Red Mud!
There’s so much to explore here and so many fine caravan parks on the Murray. Take time to checkout docks nearby and the paddle steamer history from when the Murray was indeed a river highway!
DID YOU KNOW?
The Riverland is responsible for 50 per cent of South Australia’s total wine production!
BANROCK STATION
One of the treasures we found heading west and not far from Renmark was Banrock Station. Here is somewhere truly special because their wine and wetland centre is right in the heart of the Riverland; it’s the ideal setting to enjoy outstanding wine, food, and nature experiences. The cellar door is impressive and from here you get panoramic views over the vines and wetlands. They want you to come and visit them and there is always ample space to park your big rig.
Aboriginal scarred trees, stone tools and burial sites downstream from Kingston-on-Murray date to some 40, 000 years ago. Its history is worth noting as somewhere that was once a pastoral lease grazing sheep and cows, to crop growing until the mid 1980’s. Up to the 1930s, paddle steamers were the region’s primary means of communication and transport.
Part of the proceeds from the sale of Banrock wines funds a sponsorship program to assist conservation projects both domestically and overseas! Unsurprisingly, the staff at Banrock is all too pleased to answer any questions you might have. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay and advise every traveller to visit the wetlands; we particularly enjoyed all the boardwalks that stretch for kilometres through this beautiful wonderland, offering phenomenal scenery and opportunities to take in the awe inspiring flora and fauna. The boardwalks are wheelchair friendly too!
We’d advise taking at least half a day to indulge in the region’s wine tasting, delicious food and of course, wetland exploration; there really is something for everyone, so I hope you give it a go! MORGAN Setting the GPS for our next stop, Burra, we almost drove past Morgan. It’s but a short drive from the highway and it is one of the river’s best kept secrets.
Going back to the 1880’s, to 1910 and at the height of the river trade, Morgan was the busiest inland port in Australia. We felt like we were walking into another world when we visited the Landseer’s Warehouse. Landseer Ltd was the largest trading and shipping company on the Murray and this museum is a must to tell the vibrant history of the river trade complete with outstanding handmade models of paddle steamers of the era. It’s loaded with examples of horse drawn vehicles and the history of a bustling river port. Make sure you get to talk to locals who volunteer here, visit the old wharf built of red and blue gum (still as tough as ever) and don’t miss the Old Wharf Craft shop to pick up something special. There’s a caravan park and a ferry to take your RV over to Cadell. Don’t forget to ask about extreme free camping by the river!
Locals are passionate about Morgan and it’s this friendliness and spirit that you’ll also love - Make Morgan a must!
FRED’S TIP
Avoid penalties and be wary to not bring fruit or veggies into fruit fly exclusion zones!
For more information on exclusion zones contact the fruit fly hotline on: 1300 666 010
BURRA
We were on limited shoot time so it was off to Burra! Or rather I should say, ‘Historical Burra’; because that’s really what it is all about!
1845 saw the discovery of copper near the Burra Creek and because of the high grade quality of the copper and its abundance, the ‘Monster Mine’ as it came to be known, was the largest metal producing mine in Australia up until 1860. At least 50,000 tonnes of copper was produced so I think it’s fair to describe Burra as the town that copper built. A must is the Burra Heritage trail! Begin by picking up a passport at the Burra Visitor Centre in the middle of town then take to the circuit of some 11 kilometres; it should take around 3 hours. We enjoyed this trail and passport immensely!
It’s interesting to note that many Cornish miners, skilled at hard rock mines and wet rock mines which had to be drained, came here in large numbers. Many became overnight millionaires as the magnificent stone buildings will show. There’s just so much to see and do here that you will wish to stay for days! Check out the Caravan Park in town and if you’re driving a big rig, the showground can accommodate.
Burra truly is a photographer’s dream with its superb architecture and beautifully restored Railway Station. Burra is ‘Home of the Burra Passport’ and you’re going to love it.
YORKE PENINSULA BOUND
Heading for Yorke Peninsula we passed through Clare farmers for its Riesling wine and with a main street to supply all your needs. Just out of Clare you’ll come to Seven Hill Winery. We dropped in and were rewarded with space to park our rig and pleasant, grassy, shady area suitable for a picnic. The Jesuits planted vines here some 150 years ago and it’s from this appealing winery that that most altar wine in Australia and Asia is produced.
But you’ll want to visit the cellar door to sample the many award winning reds and whites produced here and go below to see where the casts are kept at a constant temperature. A unique winery, so relaxing and enjoyable, this is one not to be missed!
Yorke Peninsula beckoned so with the help of Jo Bernie, the Tourism Manager; so we sat down and planned out our visit here. Making our base at Ardrossan Caravan Park we set out to explore and discover why so many travellers had told us to visit. If there is problem it must surely be that in our haste to head to the Flinders or across the Nullarbor, we inadvertently drove past this peninsula and as we were about to discover this was going to be a big mistake.
ARDROSSAN
Ardrossan is on the east coast and boasts a reputation as the home of the jump stump plough and the blue swimmer crab; not forgetting the bigger King George Whiting in SA.
If there was a single highlight on the entire trip it would have be raking blue swimmer crabs out of the sand with sand with a bag limit of 20 per person and no license required. We met up with locals who were only too pleased to show us where to rake and even though the tides and weather were not on our side, we still came home with beaming smiles and enough crabs to cook and eat at the caravan park.
At the Ardrossan Museum we met a chap who had actually worked in the factory that made the plough which would become famous; a great story from a true gentleman.
Before we knew it we were westward bound…
MOONTA
We’d been told about Moonta and that we should head for the Moonta Mines Tourist Railway. There’s a 50 minute trip by narrow gauge rail with terrific commentary from the train driver along the way. Here’s a chance to learn more about the cooper mining history and its importance to the peninsula. This group of volunteers who run the railway are to be commended on the wonderful job they do!
What came next was a Farm Shed Museum and Tourism centre that nothing could have prepared us for! It’s sheer scope and size was overwhelming, I couldn’t believe the amount of history we were absorbing. Please allow hours as you’ll want to read everything and experience it all! From the life of women in the early days to a wealth of information on the regions mining and agricultural pursuits; this is a truly amazing museum and one of the whole area should be beaming with pride over.
INNES NATIONAL PARK
As our time was drawing to a close, we drove south to Innes National Park. Seldom have we found more helpful and friendly National Park Rangers eager to tell us about the Park they dearly loved. This is a place that offers camping experiences close to the ocean, magnificent beaches, shipwreck history and haunted houses! If ghost hunting is your thing, people have had reportedly had some close encounters with the ghosts of yesterday! If not, then just relax, chill out and enjoy the company of the tame wallabies, kangaroos and emus – you might even find some stromatolite!
This truly was three trips in one, from the Riverland, through Copper Country and finishing in the Yorke Peninsula. South Australia can really hold its head up as providing some of the best RV experiences in Australia and it goes without saying that I really enjoyed mine!
MUST SEES
BANROCK STATION
Holmes Rd, Kingston-on-Murray
P: (08) 8583 0299
WOOLSHED BREWERY
65 Wilkinson Rd, Renmark
P: (08) 8595 8188
W: www.woolshedbrewery.com.au
MOONTA MINES TOURIST RAILWAY
Verran Tce
P: (08) 8825 1891
W: www.moontatourism.org.au
SEVENHILL CELLARS
College Road, Sevenhill, SA
P: (08) 8843 4222
W: www.sevenhill.com.au
PORT OF MORGAN MUSEUM
Railway Terrace
P: (08) 8540 2641
WHERE TO STAY
ROBINVALE RIVERSIDE CARAVAN PARK
25 McLennan Drive, Robinvale, VIC
P: (03) 5026 4646
W: www.robinvaleaccomodation.com.au
BURRA CARAVAN PARK
12 Bridge Terrace, Burra, SA
P: (08) 8892 2442
W: www.goyder.sa.gov.au
ARDROSSAN CARAVAN PARK
Park Terrace, Ardrossan, SA
P: (08) 8837 3262
W: www.ardrossancaravanpark.com.au
INNES NATIONAL PARK
Marion Bay Road, Inneston, SA
P: (08) 8854 3200
W: www.environment.sa.gov.au
CHEAP TREATS
BURRA HERITAGE TRAIL
2 Market Square
P: (08) 8892 2555
INNESTON HISTORIC WALK
Innes National Park
P: (08) 8854 3200
OLIVEWOOD HISTORIC HOMESTEAD LOCATION
Cnr Renmark Avenue & Twenty First Street, Renmark
P: (08) 8586 6175
